Installing Metal Roofing Panels
Go to to watch the complete 14 video series on installing metal roofing.
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Our Location
23, Periyanna St, Erode-1.
Call Us
+91 97867-56158
Working Time
24 x 7 x 365 Days
“It’s easy to get off as you’re screwing”
Completely agree! Great video though, thanks
11:00 “it’s easy to get off when you’re screwing” hit me right in the chuckle wagon. Lmao
with these two guys, I didn’t even think of that. Maybe the Bear in the back to some.
Just wonderful. So helpful. Thanks!
I am running up the walls in my garage, how do i deal with the light switches etc.
In your demo, you never did install any foam closure strip underneath the panel on top of the nailer strip, was that just a oversight for the video or are they really optional? Are they to be worth buying and installing? Thanks
Thanks for the tips
Unless it is a roof over an open sided pole barn, I’d sure as heck want something to keep nesting hornets out of the attic.
“Damn it, knock off the noise, I’m makin a damn video.”
11:01 – “It’s easy to get off as you’re screwing”
I agree.
HA! ?
Whip Shot6”
I caught that too lol!!!!!
I have several points that I’d like to address here:
Vapor barrier: iirc, IBC/IRC requires a vapor barrier between the metal and the furring strips, because condensation that forms on the *underside* of the sheets WILL run down and eventually rot out the furring strips.
Pre-drilling 1/8″ pilot holes in stacks of panels (ten or less, on boards/pallets on the “ground”, clamped together at opposite corners) according to furring strip spacing provides several advantages: perfectly straight screw lines, eliminates snapping lines on the roof and eliminates the struggle/frustration of piercing the panel while on the roof (more critical as roof pitch increases). This may take a little more time to lay-out and pre-drill, but the quality of the end product and the ease of install up on the roof are way worth it, especially on steeper pitches and when remaining on the roof is desirable. :o) Think “pre-drilling = quality & rooftop efficiency & safety.”
A story pole is useful for laying out furring strips over the comp shingles to give consistent spacing and permits for pre-drilling the panels.
Perfect drip-edge alignment with NO “stair-stepping”: When installing field panels on a straight run with no penetrations, I like to screw the first panel securely where you want it, then use lap screws to initially connect THE NEXT FEW PANELS together at the vertical laps, so that you have four or five panels “floating” on the deck and there are no screws on these subsequent panels penetrating the roof just yet (Of course you’ll want to align the panels at the bottom edge when connecting the panels at the laps). You’ll notice when doing this that the loose edge of this row of panels is movable up and down the roof, to where you can adjust the amount of overhang. I prefer to use a pre-cut spacer block for gauging the overhang as opposed to a tape measure, as this eliminates user error AND is a lot less awkward to use than a tape in precarious situations like on a ladder or steep roof. Use common sense and ONLY use this method when wind conditions are calm enough to allow… no one needs a row of loose panels flying around. 8-/
@Peter Battiste they meant a water resistant underlayment. That does on top of the decking before the steel panels.
Vapor barrier goes on the in side of the house before the dry wall tar paper or synthetic wrap go’s on the roof
+Kris W
If installed properly, the felt will not interfere with airflow. Your furring strips are installed running side-to-side and your felt will lay flat onto the strips and actually get “clamped” onto the strips by the roof metal. The hollow areas caused by the ridges in the roofing metal will allow for some bottom-to-top airflow.
If your aim is to create more passive airflow under the panels, you could run 2x4s from top-to-bottom directly on top of your trusses/rafters, THEN apply your 1×4 (or better yet, 2×4) furring strips horizontally on top of these, making sure that EVERYTHING is fastened down securely to avoid ANY chance of wind-lift during heavy winds.
I live in New Mexico, where the sun can be rather brutal. I designed & built a roof on a studio that kept the heat that penetrated through the roofing metal from entering the structure by creating passive airflow channels (as described above) under the metal and above the insulated space in the ceiling. Air entered on the screened bottoms of the soffits and exited at screened openings at the peak.
I am actually second guessing the 1×4’s and thinking that the 2x4s would be better since they are less likely to split when nailed or screwed into. Plus they would be better structurally as well.
+Bryan Barnard Thanks for the follow up information. I was wondering if that would work well for air flow, I can imagine it would make a big difference in an area like yours that gets that kind of heat. I may do that, I am not quite sure yet though. I may just do 1x4s on the trusses, and then 1x4s horizontally just to avoid having a 3 inch increase in the height of the roof. Although I guess it wouldn’t be that hard to overcome that with proper flashing, etc.. I suspect that the 3/4 inch that would allow air movement up the roof, Plus that of the ridges themselves would work pretty well. Definitely better than just furring strips and panels.
I’m so glad you found me… I just bought some of these panels on clearance for $12.14 each Going to do most of the shed with it unless I can still get about 4 more. I’m using a 9×4 garage door instead of the roll up because it was only $150.00 I used my Harbor Freight trailer and it was a bad experience. I should have just bought the panels alone. I have a truck but it costs too much to insure as an extra in Michigan. I think I’ve put less than 1,000 miles in 5 years. If only it was a real truck or extended cab. Michigan kinda sucks but I’d still rather live here than Indiana…or worse, Illinois or Ohio.
What is the best way to plug or repair screw holes? I have several salvaged panels I’m going to make a 12’ X 15’ storage shelter for my tractor and I’m going to have lots of extra little screw holes. Thanks. Great video.
I run foam strips along the eave’s to keep water n ice out.About 3 inches up from the bottom.The panel dealer should have form-fit foam for whatever style panel used.
Great videos! Very informative and comprehensive. Thanks!
Awesome videos! Thank you for putting these together and for sharing your knowledge.
It is really great of you to make these videos! I learned something each minute I watched, and yes I am making most of the common mistakes. Thank you so much! You are building TONS of good karma by helping people like this.
Ask yourself this: does the extra vapor barrier reduce the heat from the shingles? I doubt it so what good is it really doing? Condensation, or sweating, is caused when to areas of differing temperatures meet. Your best bet is to let the area under the metal breathe well and make sure the attic is ventilated and insulated properly.
Great video about installing metal roof panels 🙂
great video! please tell a beginner if the short or long vertical edge goes on top or bottom.I’m sure it matters and have been told 2 different ways.
glad i watched this first saved the neighbors from witnessing any behavior they are to nice to be seeing me ripping anything
How far apart do you put the 2x4s? Great video by the way. Really good stuff you have here.
+Chris Manno Most of the videos I’ve seen on this use 1x4s and space them 2 feet on center. What I’ve also seen (and seems like a good idea) is to use 3/4 inch thick foam board insulation (Mylar backed) in between the strips. A 1×4 is actually 3/4 x 3 1/2 in size. It acts as support for the metal panels when you need to step on them so the screws don’t elongate the holes, fills the void so strong winds can’t lift the panels from underneath and adds insulation.
Thanks so much for these videos. I don’t know when I’m going to get around to using the info., but at least I’ve got it now!